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Laurie Gough

Kite Strings

I've always loved the feeling of wandering and losing myself in a place that's so different from anything I know. I don't know what people are feeling, or eating, or even saying.

I wanted to write a book so my travels wouldn't evaporate and become hazy anecdotes. Writing about my trips was almost like living them over again.

[W]e used to tell stories on the beach at night while drinking kava and listening to the Fijian men sing and play their guitars.

The search for paradise is a pervasive theme in literature, and the loss of paradise is enacted over and over again throughout history. Everyone is drawn to the myth of paradise.

Ironically, in the process of writing my book about my travels I somehow turned from a traveler into a writer. I still love to travel, to talk about it and dream about it, but what really consumes me these days isn't traveling, but writing.

I used to hitchhike everywhere, holding on to the belief that if you're not afraid of anything, nothing bad can happen to you because you're not attracting those dark forces. I still like to believe that's true in theory, but I don't hitchhike anymore.

An interview with Laurie Gough

By Lori Houston

When you see the Southern Cross
For the first time
You understand now
Why you came this way

From the song Southern Cross, by Stephen Stills.

Author Laurie Gough wandered the world through much of her twenties, a lone traveler in search of exotic lands and the adventures that come with moving through them. Out of her travels comes her first book, Kite Strings of the Southern Cross: A Woman's Travel Odyssey.

From her gypsy home on the remote Fijian island of Tavenui, Gough spins tales of her travels in Bali, Malaysia, New Zealand, Italy, Morocco, and North America. While doing so she falls in love with Laudi, an island native who draws her into his island world.

The book traverses Gough's deepening enchantment with the stunning natural beauty of the islands. She thinks of never leaving as she embraces this paradise found. This is the tale of a drifter alighting for awhile, drawn to the possibility of paradise found, while stories of other journeys and cultures mingle with the central story. Ultimately, Gough discovers that even staying in one place evolves into yet another journey, with the accompanying pleasures, challenges, and dangers revealing much more about what she is truly seeking.


Interview Contents

Houston:
Tell me a little about yourself, both personally and professionally.

Gough:
I was born in the States but I grew up in Canada. At seventeen I moved on my own from Canada to Boulder, Colorado, to waitress and hike. I lived in the mountains for a year before going to the University of Guelph in Canada where I studied international development. After graduating, I worked on a farm, then spent a year hitchhiking and working across Europe and North Africa, followed by a winter in a Jamaican village where I lived with a family of women. I hitchhiked to the Yukon and Northwest Territories before graduating from teacher's college. My first teaching job -- I taught third grade on a native reserve in Canada's sub-Arctic -- was horrendous. But now, ten years later, I can laugh when I look back on it.

I lived in a cabin in the woods of northern Ontario to recuperate from teaching on the native reserve. There I continued to teach school and began to write short stories. In the early 90's, I traveled to the South Pacific, mainly Fiji, and to Southeast Asia. I returned to Canada to work in a group home for the mentally handicapped, teach English literature at night school and English to Vietnamese immigrants working in a bumper factory.

Morocco was my next destination. After that I returned again to the northern Ontario woods and began to write Kite Strings of the Southern Cross. My most recent travels abroad were to Sumatra, Indonesia and, briefly, South Korea. Until recently, I've been teaching high school English part-time and writing nature guides. I just arrived in northern California to write, give readings for Kite Strings, and escape the Canadian winter.

Houston:
What made you choose to live in Northern California?

Gough:
I've always dreamt of living in a place where nature overwhelms you, yet you can still be close enough to bookstores, movies, outdoor cafes, and Ben and Jerry's ice cream. Northern California offers these things, although I haven't moved here officially yet. I'm just here for two months. I'm renting this great room in a house surrounded by redwood trees. This is so thrilling for me to be amidst such beauty. I'm one of those people deeply affected by her natural surroundings. I also love the fact that California is smoke-free. You can go out dancing and not be surrounded by toxic fumes. It's wonderful.

Houston:
Have you always been a writer?

Gough:
I always loved creative writing in school. In university I took a lot of English literature, although that wasn't my major. I wrote for the university newspaper and then started writing for small magazines and newspapers. I also had some stories published in a travel anthology.

Houston:
After reading your book, it struck me that there are at least two kinds of travelers: tourists and wanderers. You are definitely a wanderer. When did you first identify your wanderlust?

Gough:
I've always loved the feeling of wandering and losing myself in a place that's different from anything I know, a place where I don't know what people are feeling, or eating, or even saying. There have been places where I haven't even known how to cross the street. It makes me feel 10 years old again, back when everything was new. When I was a kid, my parents would take us camping every summer. We had one of those pop-up trailers and we'd go to a different part of North America every year. I loved arriving at a new place, an unfamiliar landscape.

My first trip on my own was at age 16 when I went to Florida for the summer to visit a girlfriend. To this day my mother doesn't know that that girl's parents weren't there that summer. Later that year I went on a school trip to Madeira and fell in love. I was hooked on the thrill of travel after that. Nothing about it was predictable.

Searching for Paradise

Houston:
What is it about the Southern Cross that drew you to that part of the world?

Gough:
I always had a romantic idea of the Southern Cross, which probably came from that Crosby, Stills, and Nash song. I also always wanted to live on a tropical island. When I was young I read Margaret Mead's Coming of Age in Samoa, and it influenced me greatly. I've always had a dreamy nature and I crave gorgeous, jaw-dropping, awe-inspiring places where nature overpowers all else.

Houston:
Why did you want to write this book? Did you keep a travel journal and turn it into a book?

Gough:
I almost always kept (and still keep) some sort of travel diary, although I hadn't planned on turning my travels into a book during my heavy traveling years. That only came to me later when I returned and knew I had to record what I'd seen. I wanted to write a book so my travels wouldn't evaporate and become hazy anecdotes. Writing about my trips was almost like living them over again.

Houston:
What span of time does the book cover?

Gough:
It covers my travels all through my twenties. It's mainly the story of my life on Taveuni, the Fijian island where I lived, twice, over a one-and-a-half-year period. But in that year I left Fiji for a time and traveled to other parts of the South Pacific and also to Southeast Asia. I describe these travels also. Other travel stories from earlier in my life, from my early twenties, are also included. That's because in Fiji they have a strong story-telling tradition (no TV there) and we used to tell stories on the beach at night while drinking kava and listening to the Fijian men sing and play their guitars. The stories I tell of my other travels parallel the main themes of the book of my life in Fiji. It's many stories within a story.

Houston:
Several times in the book you recount moments pointing to the vastness and sometimes non-linear nature of time. Why is time such an important theme for you?

Gough:
Because I'm so aware of it passing. When I travel, time stretches out and days can feel like weeks because everything is new. Our senses are completely absorbed with every passing detail. We're five years old again. When I write, I'm alarmed at how fast time flies. I wrote almost all of my book at night because that's when I work best. I would work on a few paragraphs and think 15 minutes had gone by, but then I'd look up at the clock and be incredulous that two hours had mysteriously passed. I think it has something to do with using the right side of the brain for creativity. The right side doesn't keep track of time. It's frightening. To be absorbed in the moment when you're aware of your surroundings makes time slow down. To be absorbed in your thoughts when you're completely unaware of your surroundings speeds it up. That's how it works for me anyway.

Houston:
What would you say are some of the other pervasive themes of Kite Strings?

Gough:
One is the search for the perfect place: finding it, losing it, then finding it again in a different way. The search for paradise is a pervasive theme in literature, and the loss of paradise is enacted over and over again throughout history. Everyone is drawn to the myth of paradise. As a young traveler in my book, I learn what we probably all know in the first place but have to find out for ourselves just to make sure: there's no such thing as the perfect place. I go all around the world looking for it and it's not out there. But I learn that, although paradise may not exist on a tropical island, or in a culture as a whole, or in a far-flung society of native woods people, it survives on the island of the human heart, in countless immeasurable ways. This theme doesn't come out nearly as corny-sounding in the book.

Another theme in the book is that we have a duty to follow our hearts, to live out our dreams, to express as fully as possible who we are as individuals. In Fiji, I encountered people who were lovely and generous and living entirely social lives, and, on the surface, cheerful, fulfilling lives. But, they were also terribly afraid to be themselves, to be individuals. Individuality is impolite in many cultures. People simply don't express diverging opinions from the group. For a North American this is almost impossible to grasp. Our western individuality leads to all kinds of problems, but I have also come to believe in it. As I write in my book, "We must learn to be utterly ourselves, to follow our own deep dreams. We're disappointing powerful forces and ourselves if we ignore this calling. We live lies, half-truths, half-lives. Nature craves diversity, not conformity. This is how we move forward, expand with the universe, and how we find our way back home."

A third theme is the strange interconnection of things and people on levels we don't normally see because we're not looking. People and places we encounter on our life-journeys reappear throughout our lives, not always the same people or the exact same set of circumstances, but the same themes. I think we attract them and the reasons aren't always clear, but if we're wise we'll learn from them and try to understand the connections. Some people are always choosing unrequited love to feel sadness. I don't know why anyone would, but you certainly see that. I like looking for invisible strings linking events and people together -- like kite strings. In my book, I'm followed everywhere by a man in Malaysia I call the Devil. He reappears as someone else in Fiji, and as someone else again in Italy. I learn different things from him each time.

There's also an underlying theme of life happening right here before us and how we must open our eyes before we die. I write that "Life isn't a prelude to something bigger. There is no prelude, just life itself, right here. Life is progress. We're at its deep and solid core."

The Writing Life

Houston:
What do you think your book achieves? What do you hope to give your readers?

Gough:
When the book came out last year in Canada (under the title, Island of the Human Heart) I had a lot of letters and e-mail messages from travelers, especially female travelers, who told me I inspired them to travel, especially to travel solo. But the majority of letters and feedback I received came from writers who told me how much my writing meant to them. Ironically, in the process of writing my book about my travels, I somehow turned from a traveler into a writer. I still love to travel, to talk about it and dream about it, but what really consumes me these days isn't traveling, but writing. What I love to talk about now is writing and literature -- what makes good writing good, what moves people, how to describe people and situations to make them come alive. If people read my book and are inspired and moved by its ideas and descriptions and stories, that means the world to me.

Houston:
Do you have any qualms about laying bare so much about yourself in the book?

Gough:
Only when it comes to my mother. As for the rest of the world, it doesn't bother me at all. I remember when my mother proofread the manuscript, she wanted me to change and even obliterate some scenes. After much anxiety and deliberation, I went ahead and altered slightly the wording of some paragraphs. It didn't change the meaning much, but enough to make my mother happy.

Houston:
Are you writing now?

Gough:
Writing a book is all consuming. You have to put your life on hold. In some ways it must be like being pregnant. Even when you give birth and your book comes out, you still have to take care of it. I haven't been able to find the time for another book yet, but I've written a few short travel stories which I'd like to put into my next book. After that I want to start writing novels.

Houston:
What are your thoughts about travel books and travel writing in general?

Gough:
I'm thrilled that travel literature is now a genre unto its own. No longer are travel narratives lost among the travel guide books in book stores. Travel literature explores the author's inner visions as well as the outer ones. I read travel narratives as much as I can. My favorite travel books are about the solo traveler on a solo journey, a journey utterly devastating and utterly joyous all at once.

Hitting the Road

Houston:
Where do you want to go that you haven't yet been?

Gough:
There are still so many places I'd like to go: India, Bhutan, Tibet, Turkey, Ireland, and islands out in the middle of nowhere, like the Galapagos and Easter Island, Mauritius and the Seychelles. I love islands and am fascinated with island cultures. I also just love the feeling of driving around new parts of North America, the rural parts and small towns, to see the land and how people are living on it.

Houston:
Many times in this book you give yourself over so willingly to "fate" and, in your quest to immerse yourself culturally, you put yourself wholly in the hands of utter strangers. You experienced wonderful outcomes most of the time, yet sometimes things took a very dangerous, potentially life-threatening turn. As a woman traveling solo in a frequently violent world, how did you -- how do you -- deal with that? Is it a matter of gut instinct? Do you ever feel differently about it in hindsight?

Gough:
Absolutely. I used to hitchhike everywhere, holding on to the belief that if you're not afraid of anything, nothing bad can happen to you because you're not attracting those dark forces. I still like to believe that's true in theory, but I don't hitchhike anymore. At least, I haven't in a long time. I suppose if circumstances were right, I'd still hitchhike with a friend and in countries where it's not dangerous. Also, yes, I think it is a matter of gut instinct. I think I had so many positive experiences traveling and hitchhiking on my own because I expected to have them. I believed people were good and they were good, usually. It sounds terribly naive, but I also believe there's truth to it. Of course, there has to be caution and you have to know how to trust your instincts.

Houston:
One last question: What advice or counsel would you give first-time wanderers hitting the road?

Gough:
That the world is a wondrous place and there is much to learn from it. Talk to people and learn about their lives. Everyone has a story. If you're feeling aimless wandering about don't fret over it, because that's part of the experience. When you travel on your own you grow at such an accelerated rate it's alarming, although you may not realize it at the time. You learn about yourself. Your perspective on just about everything changes dramatically. You come home and you're a different person. Your world has changed. Record your impressions in a diary, take books to read, also toilet paper. Travel light because you have to lug it all with you everywhere you go. (I always make that mistake even after having dragged my stupidly heavy backpack to 30 countries.) Some people are terribly rude if you have a backpack. Ignore them. Read about where you're going before you go. It's so much easier to have a plan and a map. Don't think you can travel to escape your life. You take your life with you. Travel to explore. It's one of the best things you can do while you're here on this earth.

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